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8 to 6 lug conversion hubs, 14FF

9K views 36 replies 11 participants last post by  silver98Z71 
#1 ·
Who was it that sold these? Also, does anyone know of any CAD files available for it? We have the machinery necessary to make them and I may be needing a pair in the future....
 
#5 ·
I just had a set made for $500. Contact Donovan at Ram Grinding in Arvada Colorado.

www.ramgrinding.com
 
#7 ·
#9 ·
yea and still have a 6 lug front if youre ifs and only be able to rotate tires left to right, or unmount them at every rotation because you wanted to save $500, rilliant.


axis do you have any pics? are these guys making them or you just comissioned them to do so? have you used them yet? im definitely interested
 
#10 ·
Chuck up each hub and turn the back of the WMS flush (stock it has cast reliefs around the 8 stud holes along the OD of the hub). At the same time turn the hub snout down to accomodate the ID of the 6 lug wheel center hole.

Weld up all 8 holes.

Mill the filler flush with the rest of the WMS.

Rough cut and then mill 6 blocks to make up the thickness of the material your turned away on the back with enough width to accommodate the press fit required for the stud knurl.

Weld these blocks to the back of the hub in an equal 6 star pattern with N99 filler with a good pre heat, post heat, peening and slow cool.

Rough drill then ream the 6 on 5.5 pattern to the hub about the center axis.

Press in studs along with a 6 lug rotor for whatever rear disc setup you create.

Tada.

EDIT: There's still the issue of the OD of the shaft flange and bolts being too big for the 6 lug wheel center. You can turn don the shaft and grind a small flat on one side of the retaining bolts if you switch to SHCS's. Or you can just get used to pulling the shafts every time you pull a rear tire.
 
#15 ·
The issue I see more is the amount of knurl on the stud and the amount of material holding that knurl. Spinning a stud would suck.

Slipping the rotor on the front is easy but you could use a 6 lug 10 bolt rotor just as easily as you use an 8 lug rotor right? The hub snouts aren't different OD's as they use the same selectable hubs.

I've got some pics of Jason's version and yes he welded on the blocks which is not shown in the pics. I know because I picked one up he hadn't been able to deliver yet when we straightened up his garage.



 
#16 ·
The issue I see more is the amount of knurl on the stud and the amount of material holding that knurl. Spinning a stud would suck.
I am using factory front studs, with the same amount of knurl engaged or a tad more as the stock front unit bearing. Reamed about 10 test holes until we got the perfect hole size so the knurl was engaged perfect. 30k miles so far and only issue is some leaking axle shaft seals.
 
#20 ·
It wouldn't be a big deal, but you'll have to wait in line I seem to be booked.

Finishing some furniture for the gf's house for her birthday this week.

Headed to SLO next weekend to hang all the gf's pictures and work on her new place.

Building bumpers and tire carrier for my friends XJ that week.

Headed down to Bako Friday night for a week to finish Jason's rig for Ken.

Gearing and reassembling a D60 for a different friend when I get back.

Welding up the front suspension on an MJ the rest of that week.

Adding a cage to the back half of my friends Scout after that and a winch mount to his front bumper.

Then after that hopefully ordering a couple hundred feet of tube and building an exo and possible bed and replacing my PS pump can for some runs before Moab in September.

Job interviews have to fall in there somewhere and hopefully a job a SLO soonest.

Where does that leave me? End of August'ish?
 
#21 ·
It wouldn't be a big deal, but you'll have to wait in line I seem to be booked.

Finishing some furniture for the gf's house for her birthday this week.

Headed to SLO next weekend to hang all the gf's pictures and work on her new place.

Building bumpers and tire carrier for my friends XJ that week.

Headed down to Bako Friday night for a week to finish Jason's rig for Ken.

Gearing and reassembling a D60 for a different friend when I get back.

Welding up the front suspension on an MJ the rest of that week.

Adding a cage to the back half of my friends Scout after that and a winch mount to his front bumper.

Then after that hopefully ordering a couple hundred feet of tube and building an exo and possible bed and replacing my PS pump can for some runs before Moab in September.

Job interviews have to fall in there somewhere and hopefully a job a SLO soonest.

Where does that leave me? End of August'ish?

im game :lol:.

legitimately gonna look into this, I always had the 14FF on the books eventually but given current circumstances now might be a good time to go for it. Any idea what it would run to have the holes welded up? Would you want it treated after that or plenty strong as is?
 
#22 ·
btw kyle in reading the 14 bolt bible on pirate, there are the two different styles with the later design having the slide off drum. would this design difference affect this process at all and make one more desirable than the other, or would either work fine? reason I ask is there are a few parts, including a 97 3/4 burb 14 bolt, that im looking at in sac that i could probably pick up for next to nothing.
 
#24 ·
I wouldn't wieght your decesion on a next to nothing 14 bolt... because there are alot of them :)


Kyle: I think we could get a list going :popcorn: You need a vacation son!
i can probably pick this one up for basically nothing with the other stuff, and in searching craigslist everyday for the past month for various things im looking for, 14 bolts have gone up a bit, more like $150-300 easy most of the time it seems with the occasional cheapo here and there
 
#25 ·
Here is the third method for converting the 14FF to 6 lug.

My hubs accept a 6-5.5 wheel AND use the run of the mill 14FF disk brake conversions you see everywhere.

How this works is as follows:

1. Hub snouts are turned down.
2. 2 of the original 8 lug holes are plugged.
3. 6-5.5 pattern is machined in.
4. The remaining 6 of the 8 original holes are tapped for a 3/4 - 10 bolt.









I would first press in the studs, and then bolt the 8 lug rotor to the back of the hub.

Of course, I need the turned down SHCSs.



That is how mine is going to work.
 
#26 ·
interesting approach as well, and thats what ram grinding did for you? would the method kyle described not work with the traditional disc brake conversion kits? if/when i do this, i will be looking to go 5.13/eaton/6 lug/disc (preferrably big discs to match big brakes in the front, if anyone happens to know how big the available kits allow you to go?)
 
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